Margan Top Trek
A Hidden Gem of Kashmir
Some places don’t just steal your heart; they leave a mark on your soul. This time, my adventure took me to Margan Top Trek—a lesser-known yet breathtaking trail in Kashmir. Known for its lush meadows, vibrant wildflowers, and mesmerizing views of the Margan Valley, this trek offers the perfect blend of cultural immersion and scenic beauty.
Some places don’t just steal your heart; they leave a mark on your soul. This time, my adventure took me to Margan Top Trek—a lesser-known yet breathtaking trail in Kashmir. Known for its lush meadows, vibrant wildflowers, and mesmerizing views of the Margan Valley, this trek offers the perfect blend of cultural immersion and scenic beauty.
Journey to Mattigawran – The Basecamp of Margan Top Trek
Our adventure began early in the morning as we left Srinagar for Mattigawran Village, the basecamp for our trek. The drive itself was a journey through heaven, with winding roads passing through Anantnag, lush valleys, and charming wooden houses straight out of a fairytale.
Midway, we stopped for lunch at one of the most serene locations—a beautiful garden with birds chirping all around and a natural spring flowing through it. The water was icy cold, straight from the mountains, and we couldn’t resist playing around in it, enjoying the refreshing touch of nature.
Arriving at Mattigawran – A Homestay Dream Come True
By evening, we reached Mattigawran, a peaceful village surrounded by apple orchards and walnut trees. Our homestay was a traditional Kashmiri house with a backyard full of organic vegetables—everything from potatoes to spinach growing fresh under the open sky. Right in front of the house stood a majestic apple tree, its branches heavy with unripe green apples.
I had always dreamed of plucking an apple straight from a tree and eating it fresh. Even though the apples weren’t fully ripe, I couldn’t resist trying one. It was slightly tangy but still incredibly tasty—a true farm-to-mouth experience!
After enjoying welcome drinks and some evening snacks, we gathered for medical and identity checks with our trek leader. Once done, we had the whole evening free to explore the village.
Exploring Mattigawran – The Cultural Experience
We roamed through the narrow streets of Mattigawran, absorbing the village’s peaceful vibes. Life here was slow, simple, and deeply connected to nature. We met locals, shared conversations, and even went on a small mission—finding UNO cards! Since we had forgotten our own, we searched through the market, only to realize that some shopkeepers had never even heard of UNO. We explained the game to them, laughed a lot, and in the end, it became one of the most fun cultural exchanges of the trip.
The Walnut Trees of Kashmir
Everywhere in Mattigawran, walnut trees lined the roads. Kashmir is famous for its high-quality walnuts, and seeing them in their natural habitat was fascinating. The young walnuts weren’t ripe yet, but they smelled earthy and fresh. I plucked one from the roadside, held it in my palm, and appreciated how even the smallest things in nature can bring so much joy.
The Beginning of the Trek – A Journey into the Unknown
The morning started with warm black tea and a delicious breakfast, fueling us for the adventure ahead. Unlike other treks, this was a completely DIY trek—no one in the group, not even our guide or trek leader, had experienced this trail before. We were about to explore an uncharted route together, making it a truly unique and thrilling journey.
This trek was booked through Indiahikes, one of India’s best trekking organizations. Their vision and actions toward sustainable trekking are something I truly admire. They focus on eco-friendly trekking practices, minimizing waste, and preserving nature as much as possible. If you’re looking for an ethical and well-organized trek, I highly recommend checking out their website: Indiahikes.
From Mattigawran to Hazbal Bridge – The Real Trek Begins
The day started with a short road journey from Mattigawran to Hazbal Bridge. As we reached our starting point, we did some warm-up exercises, preparing ourselves for the long trek ahead. The view was already breathtaking—lush green meadows, towering pine trees, and a valley straight out of a dream.
With our eco-bags ready, we followed a simple but powerful rule: Leave the mountains cleaner than we found them. As we walked, we picked up any plastic waste along the way, doing our small part to protect this paradise.
Meeting the Gujjar Community – The Resilient Nomads of Kashmir
As we trekked through the valley, we came across the Gujjar community—a nomadic tribe known for their pastoral lifestyle.
Who are the Gujjars of Kashmir?
The Gujjars are one of the oldest nomadic communities in India, primarily living in the mountains of Jammu & Kashmir. They move seasonally with their cattle, living in simple, yet sturdy mud-and-wood huts that protect them from the harsh winter snowstorms and heavy monsoons. Despite their limited resources, they live happily and harmoniously with nature.
We had the chance to interact with a Gujjar family, and their warmth was heart-melting. The children, full of innocence and strength, ran around barefoot, laughing and playing freely. Their simple lifestyle made me rethink how little one needs to be truly happy.
The Trail to Jhopdi Campsite – A Day in Nature’s Lap
The trail was alive with life—herders guiding their sheep, cows, and horses, birds singing, and the scent of fresh earth filling the air. Walking through this raw and untouched land felt like stepping into a different world.
After hours of walking, we finally reached our Jhopdi Campsite, a beautiful open area surrounded by tall pine trees and a pristine river flowing right in front of us.
Pitching Our Own Tents – A First-Time Experience
For the first time ever, we pitched our own tents! Our trek leader guided us through the process, and from setting up the sleeping tents to the kitchen and dining area, we built our own little campsite. It was a rewarding experience, learning the skills needed to survive in the wild.
A Meal by the River and the Magic of Glacier Water
After setting up our tents, we had a simple but delicious lunch—sandwiches, bananas, and aam panna, all with the stunning view of the valley and river in front of us.
We then walked down to the glacier-fed river, dipping our feet into the chilled, crystal-clear water. The moment the icy water touched my skin, a wave of refreshing energy ran through my body. Throughout this trek, I drank only pure glacier water, straight from the streams—it was mineral-rich, fresh, and unbelievably tasty.
Power Naps, Wildflowers & Butterflies
After lunch, we lay down on the grass, soaking in the serenity of the valley. The wind whispered through the pine trees, and I let my mind be completely at peace.
As I walked through the valley, I noticed something magical—Kashmir is covered in wildflowers. Every step felt like walking on a natural carpet of flowers, with vibrant shades of yellow, pink, and purple decorating the trails.
I even found a beautiful butterfly resting on a flower, a tiny yet powerful reminder of nature’s delicate beauty.
Evening Fun – Cards & Sustainable Living
As the sun started setting, we gathered in the dining tent for a fun evening of card games. Sitting in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by majestic mountains, playing UNO and laughing with newfound friends, was one of the purest joys of this trek.
After dinner, it was time for cleaning the utensils. But here’s the interesting part—we used a water-saving contraption that minimized wastage, aligning with Indiahikes’ eco-friendly values.
As I crawled into my self-pitched tent, looking at the clear starry sky above, I felt grateful. This trek was already turning out to be one of the most enriching experiences of my life.
Into the Heart of Kashmir
A New Day, A New Challenge
As the sun barely touched the sky, we unpitched our tents, packed our bags, and geared up for another long trekking day. The excitement was high, and the mountains stood tall, waiting for us to unravel their mysteries.
The weather in the mountains changes unpredictably, and within 10 minutes of starting our trek, the bright morning transformed into a gloomy, rain-soaked landscape. A thick mist wrapped around the valley, and soon, raindrops started falling, turning into a downpour.
Walking Through a Trail of Flowers & Rain
As we ascended, the trail was a breathtaking carpet of wildflowers—shades of pink, yellow, and purple blanketed the path. However, the beauty came with a challenge: it was going to be a steep 7-8 hour ascent, and we had to brace ourselves for the journey ahead.
The rain intensified, and we quickly put on our rain ponchos, securing our backpacks and covering ourselves as best as we could. The trail became slippery and muddy, and one by one, trekkers slipped and stumbled, but nothing stopped us—we kept moving forward.
Meeting the Gujjars – Life in the Rain
After three hours of trekking, we finally arrived at a small Gujjar settlement. Their simple wooden huts stood strong despite the relentless rain, and we couldn’t help but wonder—how do they survive in such extreme conditions?
As we rested, we shared snacks, sweet tangerines, and stories with the locals and fellow trekkers. This wasn’t just a trek; it was an exchange of cultures, experiences, and human connections. The warmth of their hospitality made us forget the cold for a while.
Lunch in the Rain – A Test of Endurance
The rain refused to stop, but our stomachs couldn’t wait any longer. We found a moment of slight relief when the rain paused, quickly opening our lunch boxes. But just as we took our first bite, the downpour returned, heavier than before.
Eating in the rain, with water dripping from our ponchos onto our food, was a unique experience. In that moment, we weren’t just trekkers; we were survivors, pushing beyond comfort and embracing the rawness of the mountains.
The Breaking Point – When the Mind Fails Before the Body
The journey felt never-ending. Every step was heavy, exhausting, and mentally draining. The rain blurred the view ahead, making it seem like the destination was always out of reach.
For the first time on the trek, I felt like breaking down. I was mentally exhausted, my body ached, and the weight of the endless climb made me question my strength.
Yet, something inside me refused to give up. I kept going, step by step, even through the tears. And then, the biggest challenge of the day arrived—the boulder section.
Yet, something inside me refused to give up. I kept going, step by step, even through the tears. And then, the biggest challenge of the day arrived—the boulder section.
Crossing the Boulder Field – The Last Obstacle
Before reaching our campsite, we had to navigate through a massive section of boulders—wet, slippery, and dangerously unstable. Each step had to be calculated, and every movement required focus.
With tired legs and frozen hands, we climbed, crawled, and carefully stepped over the rocks. Finally, after what felt like a never-ending journey, we saw the campsite in the distance.
Reaching the Campsite – Warmth & Relief
As we finally arrived, everyone was soaked to the bone and shivering from the cold. Even with rain ponchos, there was no escaping the wetness.
The kitchen team was ready with hot milk tea, handing us cups the moment we stepped inside the dining tent. “Drink this first, warm yourself from the inside,” they told us. That first sip of warm tea was pure magic.
The kitchen team was ready with hot milk tea, handing us cups the moment we stepped inside the dining tent. “Drink this first, warm yourself from the inside,” they told us. That first sip of warm tea was pure magic.
A Campsite by the Lake – A Picture-Perfect View
As the rain cleared, we finally took in our surroundings—our campsite was right in front of one of the famous Chohar Nag lakes of Kashmir.
The lake was surreal, its still waters reflecting the ever-changing sky. Sitting by the lake, taking in the peace after such a grueling day, was beyond rewarding.
Games, Laughter & Culture Exchange at 13,000 Ft
After some rest, the camp was alive again. The weather was clearing up, spirits were rising, and energy was back.
We played frisbee, badminton, and explored the two lakes nearby. But the highlight of the evening? Playing kabaddi with Kashmiri boys.
We played frisbee, badminton, and explored the two lakes nearby. But the highlight of the evening? Playing kabaddi with Kashmiri boys.
Kabaddi at 13,000 ft? Who would’ve thought! They taught us their version of the game, and we introduced them to Kho-Kho. Seeing them excitedly learning a new sport was the kind of unexpected joy that travel gifts you.
Experiencing the Kashmiri Pheran – A Cloak of Warmth
One of the Kashmiri boys lent me a Pheran, a traditional Kashmiri cloak.
What is a Pheran?
The Pheran is a long woolen robe worn by the people of Kashmir, especially in winter. It is incredibly warm and often paired with a Kangri (a small pot filled with burning coal) to stay cozy even in the coldest temperatures.
Wrapped in the soft, thick fabric, I instantly felt warmer. It was like being hugged by the mountains themselves.
A Sunset Unlike Any Other
As the day came to an end, the sky transformed into a masterpiece.
From gloomy grey to deep blues, then golden yellows, fiery oranges, and finally a rich purple—the sky painted itself in colors I had never seen before.
That night, as we lay under the starry Kashmiri sky, listening to the distant sounds of the lake and the laughter of our fellow trekkers, I realized—This is why we trek. For moments like these. For the struggles, the stories, and the sunsets that stay with you forever.
That night, as we lay under the starry Kashmiri sky, listening to the distant sounds of the lake and the laughter of our fellow trekkers, I realized—This is why we trek. For moments like these. For the struggles, the stories, and the sunsets that stay with you forever.
A Morning by the Lake & Summit Day
The next morning, I woke up early, wrapped in the crisp mountain air, with a warm black tea in my hands. I wandered around the lake, watching the still waters reflect the soft glow of the rising sun. There’s something surreal about watching the world wake up in such a peaceful place—it’s a moment you never want to rush.
Breakfast was one of my favorites—sweet daliya, warm and comforting. I refused to move away from the view, wanting to savor every sip, every bite, with the lake and mountains stretched out before me.
After filling our bottles with glacier water—pure and icy cold—we geared up for the next leg of our trek: the summit push.
The Journey to Khelansar Lake Summit (14,000 ft)
Our path began with a stunning red flower carpet spread across the meadows—a fairy tale-like walk through vibrant colors.
We soon arrived at another one of the Chohar Nag lakes, its deep blue waters mirroring the sky above.
From here, the real challenge began. The trail transformed into a steep ascent through a boulder section. Each step required focus, balance, and determination. With every climb, the air felt thinner, but the thrill of reaching the top kept us moving.
From here, the real challenge began. The trail transformed into a steep ascent through a boulder section. Each step required focus, balance, and determination. With every climb, the air felt thinner, but the thrill of reaching the top kept us moving.
Finally, at 14,000 ft, we reached the Khelansar Lake summit! The panoramic view was nothing short of breathtaking.
Below us, we could see two shimmering lakes together—a sight that made every struggle worth it.
Below us, we could see two shimmering lakes together—a sight that made every struggle worth it.
Descending, Sheep-Chasing & Unexpected Rain
The descent started smoothly, but soon, I found myself getting distracted. A group of sheep were grazing nearby, and I thought, why not try to catch one? But no matter how much I tried, they were just too quick for me!
As we continued, the weather suddenly shifted—dark clouds rolled in, and within minutes, it started raining heavily. We grabbed our rain ponchos and rushed towards the campsite, navigating through wet, slippery trails.
Upon reaching the campsite, I spotted an elderly Kashmiri shepherd with his flock. Mustering some courage, I walked up to him and asked if he could help me catch a sheep. He smiled, nodded, and with just a few swift moves, he guided me in catching one! Holding the soft, woolly creature felt surreal.
As we continued, the weather suddenly shifted—dark clouds rolled in, and within minutes, it started raining heavily. We grabbed our rain ponchos and rushed towards the campsite, navigating through wet, slippery trails.
Upon reaching the campsite, I spotted an elderly Kashmiri shepherd with his flock. Mustering some courage, I walked up to him and asked if he could help me catch a sheep. He smiled, nodded, and with just a few swift moves, he guided me in catching one! Holding the soft, woolly creature felt surreal.
Horse Riding & A Pani Puri Surprise!
The surprises weren’t over yet. I got the chance to ride one of the horses that had been carrying our trek luggage from one campsite to another. There’s something so special about bonding with these strong, beautiful animals in the wild.
As the evening set in, our kitchen team had one last surprise for us—PANI PURI! The unexpected treat in the middle of the mountains was pure joy. The tangy, spicy flavors mixed with the cold mountain air—it was the perfect way to celebrate the end of another adventurous day.
The night ended with a round of cards, laughter, and storytelling under the stars, soaking in every moment before the journey continued.
As the evening set in, our kitchen team had one last surprise for us—PANI PURI! The unexpected treat in the middle of the mountains was pure joy. The tangy, spicy flavors mixed with the cold mountain air—it was the perfect way to celebrate the end of another adventurous day.
The night ended with a round of cards, laughter, and storytelling under the stars, soaking in every moment before the journey continued.
A New Morning by the Lake & Leaving the Campsite
The next morning, I started my day at the lake, walking around, admiring the different plants and wildflowers growing nearby. The peaceful silence of the mountains was only broken by the gentle sound of the flowing water.
Nearby, horses were grazing freely, crossing small rivers, and roaming through the valley. Watching them move so effortlessly in this untouched paradise felt surreal.
As the sun climbed higher, it was time to unpitch our campsite. Everyone worked together—rolling up tents, packing sleeping bags, and making sure we left nothing behind except footprints.
Nearby, horses were grazing freely, crossing small rivers, and roaming through the valley. Watching them move so effortlessly in this untouched paradise felt surreal.
As the sun climbed higher, it was time to unpitch our campsite. Everyone worked together—rolling up tents, packing sleeping bags, and making sure we left nothing behind except footprints.
Before leaving, we collected all the garbage left behind by previous travelers and stored it in our eco-bags. We had gathered a shocking amount of plastic waste from the mountains and lakes.
The Trek to Margan Top – The Death Valley
We began our trek once again, walking through small Kashmiri settlements, meeting locals, playing with different types of sheep along the way.
Finally, after hours of trekking, we reached Margan Top, also known as the Death Valley.
Margan Top is infamous for its unpredictable weather conditions. The valley is prone to sudden snowstorms, landslides, and extreme cold, making it one of the most dangerous yet stunning places in Kashmir.
We took a break at a small dhaba (tea shop) along the way, sipping on hot tea and coffee.
The Road Journey – Into the Wild
From here, our journey changed from trekking poles to a Jeep ride. The road trip through Kishtwar region was like something straight out of a movie.
We played Bollywood music in the car, singing along as the landscape kept changing.
We played Bollywood music in the car, singing along as the landscape kept changing.
The Hike to Rikhanwas Village & A Magical Campsite
Finally, we reached Rikhanwas Village, where the next part of our adventure began. The last stretch involved a hike through rocky stone trails, crossing wooden bridges over rivers.
The moment we arrived, I was blown away. A powerful river flowed right in front of our tents, surrounded by pine forests, towering glaciers, and quaint Kashmiri village houses.
As a small token of appreciation, I had picked wildflowers on the way and made a bouquet for the kitchen team.
As a small token of appreciation, I had picked wildflowers on the way and made a bouquet for the kitchen team.
Exploring Rikhanwas – Unexpected Discoveries
With the afternoon free, I took a moment to check myself in the mirror. My face was completely tanned and sunburnt! No matter how much sunscreen I had applied, the harsh mountain sun had left its mark.
In the evening, we had Potato & Chilli Pakoras as snacks, and I LOVED them! I’m a huge fan of spicy food, so having fresh chillies in the mountains was a treat.
As I roamed around the village, I stumbled upon a water-powered flour mill! Super excited, I went inside, and the kind uncle running the mill gave me a tour, explaining how it works.
He was incredibly sweet and even offered me Kashmiri salt tea and homemade roti. Despite politely refusing at first, he insisted so warmly that I just couldn’t say no!
As I roamed around the village, I stumbled upon a water-powered flour mill! Super excited, I went inside, and the kind uncle running the mill gave me a tour, explaining how it works.
He was incredibly sweet and even offered me Kashmiri salt tea and homemade roti. Despite politely refusing at first, he insisted so warmly that I just couldn’t say no!
A Fun-Filled Evening – UNO, Sunset & Mafia
Later in the evening, we all gathered around to play UNO—our favorite trek game! Borrowed from another trekker’s group. There’s something special about playing cards in a tent, under the glow of headlamps, laughing at every wild card played.
As we played, we noticed the sunset painting the sky in magical colors. Shades of pink, orange, and purple spread across the clouds, casting a dreamy glow over the valley.
At night, we played a game called Mafia—this was my first time learning and playing it, and I got totally hooked! Under the vast starlit sky, we ended the day with laughter and stories, before finally calling it a night.
As we played, we noticed the sunset painting the sky in magical colors. Shades of pink, orange, and purple spread across the clouds, casting a dreamy glow over the valley.
At night, we played a game called Mafia—this was my first time learning and playing it, and I got totally hooked! Under the vast starlit sky, we ended the day with laughter and stories, before finally calling it a night.
A Morning Like No Other – The Last Few Moments in Rikhanwas
Waking up early, I stepped out of my tent, toothbrush in hand, soaking in the incredible view one last time. Every morning here felt magical, and I cherished these quiet moments before the trek ended.
Today was all about experiencing Kashmiri village life, so I quickly got ready and started our journey towards Sukhnai village.
Today was all about experiencing Kashmiri village life, so I quickly got ready and started our journey towards Sukhnai village.
Walking Through the Heart of Kashmir – Sukhnai Village
The trail to Sukhnai village was filled with stunning landscapes. We crossed rivers, rocky trails, and small bumpy mountains, with every turn offering postcard-worthy views.
Finally, we arrived at Sukhnai, a peaceful village nestled deep in the Warwan Valley. Life here is simple yet beautiful.
We visited a traditional Kashmiri house, learning about their unique way of living. These houses are made of mud and wood, designed to keep warm in harsh winters. Inside, they have separate kitchens and storerooms to stock up on food for the cold months when stepping outside is nearly impossible.
The villagers welcomed us with a cup of Kashmiri Kahwa, a delicious saffron-infused tea. I even got to learn how it’s made!
As we sat and spoke with them, I realized something profound—they face many hardships, yet they live with pure joy and contentment. Their smiles, their warmth, their stories—everything made this moment unforgettable.
Bidding farewell to the people and their village, I walked around, taking in the beauty of this small but wonderful world tucked away in the valley of Warwan.
Finally, we arrived at Sukhnai, a peaceful village nestled deep in the Warwan Valley. Life here is simple yet beautiful.
We visited a traditional Kashmiri house, learning about their unique way of living. These houses are made of mud and wood, designed to keep warm in harsh winters. Inside, they have separate kitchens and storerooms to stock up on food for the cold months when stepping outside is nearly impossible.
The villagers welcomed us with a cup of Kashmiri Kahwa, a delicious saffron-infused tea. I even got to learn how it’s made!
As we sat and spoke with them, I realized something profound—they face many hardships, yet they live with pure joy and contentment. Their smiles, their warmth, their stories—everything made this moment unforgettable.
Bidding farewell to the people and their village, I walked around, taking in the beauty of this small but wonderful world tucked away in the valley of Warwan.
A Heartwarming Evening – Cooking for Ourselves
Back at the campsite, a group of innocent little Kashmiri boys came running to meet us. Their curiosity and excitement made our hearts melt.
As night fell, it was our turn to take over the kitchen! The kitchen team, who had been tirelessly feeding us all these days, finally got to relax while we trekkers divided tasks and cooked dinner.
Surprisingly, the food turned out absolutely delicious! There’s something special about cooking in the mountains, under the open sky, surrounded by new friends.
As night fell, it was our turn to take over the kitchen! The kitchen team, who had been tirelessly feeding us all these days, finally got to relax while we trekkers divided tasks and cooked dinner.
Surprisingly, the food turned out absolutely delicious! There’s something special about cooking in the mountains, under the open sky, surrounded by new friends.
The Final Morning – Bidding Farewell to Warwan
Morning came, and it was time to say goodbye to our last campsite. For breakfast, we had my favorite—Chhole Puri! It was the perfect meal to fuel up before starting the long journey back.
We packed up our tents, took one last deep breath of the fresh mountain air, and started trekking towards the main road.
We packed up our tents, took one last deep breath of the fresh mountain air, and started trekking towards the main road.
The Scenic Jeep Ride Back – Cherishing the Last Views
Once we reached the road, we hopped into our jeep for the final ride back. The roads felt even more scenic now, knowing that soon we’d be leaving this paradise behind.
We finally reached Mattigawran village, our base camp, where it had all begun. Here, we took a small break, enjoying tea and biscuits in beautiful traditional Kashmiri cups.
Before leaving, we also explored some traditional Kashmiri cutlery and household items, admiring the unique craftsmanship.
And just like that, our incredible trek came to an end. We packed up, boarded our vehicles, and began our journey back to Srinagar.
Before leaving, we also explored some traditional Kashmiri cutlery and household items, admiring the unique craftsmanship.
And just like that, our incredible trek came to an end. We packed up, boarded our vehicles, and began our journey back to Srinagar.
The End of One Journey, The Beginning of Another
As I sat in the car, looking out at the last glimpses of the valley, I felt a deep sense of gratitude.
This trek had given me so much—stunning landscapes, cultural experiences, new friendships, and memories that will last a lifetime.
But most importantly, it reminded me of the beauty of simplicity, the joy of nature, and the importance of slowing down to truly experience life.
Would I return to Warwan?
Absolutely.
And for now, it’s time to say goodbye to this trek. But the mountains? They’ll always be calling.
Rinkal
Rinkal is a passionate traveler from Ahmedabad who loves exploring hidden gems, savoring local foods, and sharing adventures with fellow wanderers. Rinkal’s goal is to inspire others to travel on a budget while truly experiencing the essence of each place.
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